Hallo zusammen,
ich habe eine Duetta 94 die mit dem 1.10m Kiel,
Leider ist es nicht die beste kompination. Beim segel geht das steuer immer sehr schwer und ab 4 windstärken ist enorm druck drauf
jetzt habe ich mal eine Frage, ich habe immer gefühlt viele Ruderdruck im Wasser, am land geht das steuer spielend leicht.
jetzt habe ich mich biischen mit dem Steuern der Dehler befasst.
bei den ersten duettas war das steuer eckig ,
und später bei der 31 war es eliptisch, und noch später denn tiefer als der Kiel kann das sein ?
weiß jemand warum die Form geändert wurde ?
hat jemand zufällig die Flache Variante mit elipsen steuer ?
mfg
keule
Ruder Eckig - Eliptisch
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Isuzukeule
- Beiträge: 22
- Registriert: 03.01.2015, 22:20
Re: Ruder Eckig - Eliptisch
laut Aussage Marina Team hat es wirklich was mit dem Ruderdruck zu tun.
Kann mir jemand mal einen gefallen tun ?
ich benötige die Maße von einem Elipsen steuer, egal ob kurzkiel oder normalkiel
vielen dank
Kann mir jemand mal einen gefallen tun ?
ich benötige die Maße von einem Elipsen steuer, egal ob kurzkiel oder normalkiel
vielen dank
Re: Ruder Eckig - Eliptisch
Moin Keule,
fahre die gleiche Kombi - Duetta 94 mit 1,10m - habe aber im Ansatz nicht dein beschriebenes Verhalten bzgl. Ruderdruck.
Klar ab 4-5 BFT ungerefft zieht es schon mal arg an der Pinne aber das ist wohl normal, denn sowie ein Reff drin ist alles wieder OK.
Hast du mal, bevor du jetzt dir ein neues Blatt baust, die Ruderblattlänge geprüft? Da Werksseitig das Ruderblatt auf 1,20m auch beim 1,10m Kiel
montiert wurde haben viele Ersteigner die Ruderblätter auf unter 1,10m Länge gekürzt damit bei Grundberührung als erstes der Kiel aufsetzt.
Eventuell hat da ja einer ein wenig viel abgenommen bei dir
würde den Ruderdruck erklären.
Bei meiner ist das Blatt gekürzt auf 1,05m, nur zum Vergleich....
Gruß
Bernd
fahre die gleiche Kombi - Duetta 94 mit 1,10m - habe aber im Ansatz nicht dein beschriebenes Verhalten bzgl. Ruderdruck.
Klar ab 4-5 BFT ungerefft zieht es schon mal arg an der Pinne aber das ist wohl normal, denn sowie ein Reff drin ist alles wieder OK.
Hast du mal, bevor du jetzt dir ein neues Blatt baust, die Ruderblattlänge geprüft? Da Werksseitig das Ruderblatt auf 1,20m auch beim 1,10m Kiel
montiert wurde haben viele Ersteigner die Ruderblätter auf unter 1,10m Länge gekürzt damit bei Grundberührung als erstes der Kiel aufsetzt.
Eventuell hat da ja einer ein wenig viel abgenommen bei dir
würde den Ruderdruck erklären.Bei meiner ist das Blatt gekürzt auf 1,05m, nur zum Vergleich....
Gruß
Bernd
Re: Ruder Eckig - Eliptisch
Angehend eine neue ruder. Mein English ist viel besser als mein Deutch aber dies habe ich mal gemacht.
I will answer you in English because my German is to bad for me to tell you the details.
I had problems very similar to yours. I have a Duetta 94 with deep keel. Much rudder pressure, tiller
always above the benches, easily stalled the rudder (always nice in narrow canals). Not much fun to sail.
We’ve bought the boat in in September 2012 after transferring from an Efsix (6m open keel boat). First
trip was to winter storage (on the other side of Holland).
Season 2013 was one of learing. Learning to sail the boat. During the season we began to have doubts
about the boat. It was hard to sail. We always had a reef more than others. And while I know enough
about sail trim, I could not get her to sail the way I hoped.
I had asked other Dehler Sailors (trough Dehler Club Nederland) and most agreed that it was not normal
sailing behaviour. Many recommended new sails, but stubborn as I am, I refused. Something must be
wrong. Mind you, when your sails are worn out, she will not sail pleasantly; much heel and much
weather helm. But from what I know and from what I could see, the sails were far from used up and
actually pretty good.
I looked over the photos of our pre purchase inspection, comparing what I saw to other Dehlers and
found my rudder to be much smaller than others.
Around that time, zeilersforum.nl organised a diy rudder workshop with a lot of info on how to
construct a new woodcore rudder.
Then I decided to rebuild my rudder. So when our boat was hauled, I removed the rudder and had a nice
job to spend the winter.
After measuring my suspicions proved correct. Someone had removed ~30% of the rudder (the lower
part). This means that my rudder had less draft than the 110cm draft rudder. But the 110cm depth
rudder is much wider. Also the profile of the rudder (wing shape) was far from optimal.
When I got home I measured it all and stripped the rudder to bare metal.
From the Internet I downloaded an Excel file which helped me calculate different variables for the
rudder (profile, area aft of the stock, area before the stock) and using AutoCAD I redesigned a new
rudder. Shapewise I chose to stay close to the outline of the standard rudder (straight) but I chose to
make it slightly deeper that the original design.
I constructed the rudder from 10mm thick plates of waterproof plywood, glued together with thickened
epoxy. In AutoCAD I already slice the rudder into 10mm thick sliced so I when I sawed out the slices I
already had a rough rudder. I also made moulds to check the NACA profile in the blade. Then using an
electric woodplane I formed the rudder.
Last step was to saturate the exterior with thin epoxy before applying a couple of layhers of glasfiber.
Around the rudderstock I had created a small ring that I filled with Sikaflex so that no leaks will start
there.
The result? A completely different boat! Virtually 0 rudder pressure with up to 25° of heel. No need to
reef before 5 bft (in 2013 I had 2nd reef in at 5 bft). And she sail like she should!
http://postimg.org/gallery/203lzgrgw/
I will answer you in English because my German is to bad for me to tell you the details.
I had problems very similar to yours. I have a Duetta 94 with deep keel. Much rudder pressure, tiller
always above the benches, easily stalled the rudder (always nice in narrow canals). Not much fun to sail.
We’ve bought the boat in in September 2012 after transferring from an Efsix (6m open keel boat). First
trip was to winter storage (on the other side of Holland).
Season 2013 was one of learing. Learning to sail the boat. During the season we began to have doubts
about the boat. It was hard to sail. We always had a reef more than others. And while I know enough
about sail trim, I could not get her to sail the way I hoped.
I had asked other Dehler Sailors (trough Dehler Club Nederland) and most agreed that it was not normal
sailing behaviour. Many recommended new sails, but stubborn as I am, I refused. Something must be
wrong. Mind you, when your sails are worn out, she will not sail pleasantly; much heel and much
weather helm. But from what I know and from what I could see, the sails were far from used up and
actually pretty good.
I looked over the photos of our pre purchase inspection, comparing what I saw to other Dehlers and
found my rudder to be much smaller than others.
Around that time, zeilersforum.nl organised a diy rudder workshop with a lot of info on how to
construct a new woodcore rudder.
Then I decided to rebuild my rudder. So when our boat was hauled, I removed the rudder and had a nice
job to spend the winter.
After measuring my suspicions proved correct. Someone had removed ~30% of the rudder (the lower
part). This means that my rudder had less draft than the 110cm draft rudder. But the 110cm depth
rudder is much wider. Also the profile of the rudder (wing shape) was far from optimal.
When I got home I measured it all and stripped the rudder to bare metal.
From the Internet I downloaded an Excel file which helped me calculate different variables for the
rudder (profile, area aft of the stock, area before the stock) and using AutoCAD I redesigned a new
rudder. Shapewise I chose to stay close to the outline of the standard rudder (straight) but I chose to
make it slightly deeper that the original design.
I constructed the rudder from 10mm thick plates of waterproof plywood, glued together with thickened
epoxy. In AutoCAD I already slice the rudder into 10mm thick sliced so I when I sawed out the slices I
already had a rough rudder. I also made moulds to check the NACA profile in the blade. Then using an
electric woodplane I formed the rudder.
Last step was to saturate the exterior with thin epoxy before applying a couple of layhers of glasfiber.
Around the rudderstock I had created a small ring that I filled with Sikaflex so that no leaks will start
there.
The result? A completely different boat! Virtually 0 rudder pressure with up to 25° of heel. No need to
reef before 5 bft (in 2013 I had 2nd reef in at 5 bft). And she sail like she should!
http://postimg.org/gallery/203lzgrgw/
Re: Ruder Eckig - Eliptisch
Habe diese noch gefunden in meine archiv. Ich glaube das die hier her kommen aber....
- Dateianhänge
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